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Stob Ban

Stob Ban.   Photo: Scott Muir

The fine peak of Stob Ban is dwarfed by it's lofty neighbours, but it is a fine prominent peak.  The East facing cliffs above Coire a' Mhusgain offer some interesting looking descents, but the main draws are the deep gullies (South Gully and North Gully) either side of the main summit.

Approach

The best approach is from Glen Nevis, parking in the sizeable car park on the south side of the bridge at NN145684.  A good path leads up the glen to the South and into Coire a' Mhusgain.  The best approach up to the foot of the cliff leaves the main path where the zig-zags begin (at NN153664), and follow a smaller path that crosses the Allt Coire a' Mhusgain above the narrow rocky gorge.  From there pick your way up into the corrie.  

Relevant Weather Forecasts

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Relevant Avalanche Forecasts

There is one relevant Scottish Avalanche Information Service forecast for Stob Ban.

The fine line of South Gully is obvious from the walk in from Glen Nevis.  It is a fairly wide uniform slope, with the final 15m or so a little steeper.  There are a number of entrance points to choose from into the gully, but the direct line may offer the easiest angled.  The gully itself is about 150m long, but the big slope below should offer a decent run down.  Well worth the walk/skin up to it.

Looking up from the corrie floor into South Gully.  Photo: Scott Muir
Climbing South Gully  Photo: Scott Muir
From low down in the corrie.  South Gully is visible, with North Gully just hidden.  Photo: Scott Muir
Looking down South Gully.  Photo: Scott Muir
Looking up to South Gully and North Gully.  Photo: Scott Muir
South Gully from below.  Photo: Scott Muir
The exit of South Gully.  Photo: Scott Muir
The lower section of South Gully.  Photo: Scott Muir
The upper section of South Gully  Photo: Scott Muir
Grid Reference: NN148654

Approximate Start Height: 985m

Approximate Descent: 150m

General Aspect: Northeast

Climbing Grade: I

Notes: Only steepens slightly at the top.
 

Mostly hidden on the approach from Glen Nevis, North Gully is a worthwhile companion to South Gully.  The top of the gully is located at a small col just to the North of the summit of Stob Ban.  The cornice can be sizeable, but the best chance of an easy entrance could be at the col itself (as was found March 2013).  Steeper at the top than South Gully, the wide funnel narrows in it's lower reaches, with a short narrow section before opening out onto the snow slope below.

Passing below North Gully on the way to South Gully.  Photo: Scott Muir
Looking up to South Gully and North Gully.  Photo: Scott Muir
The entry funnel of North Gully.  Photo: Scott Muir
The lower section of North Gully  Photo: Scott Muir
The lower section of North Gully  Photo: Scott Muir
The steep entry into North Gully, on a day of strong Easterlies.  Photo: Scott Muir
Grid Reference: NN147655

Approximate Start Height: 970m

Approximate Descent: 150m

General Aspect: East

Climbing Grade: I

Notes: Steep at the top.
 
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